First of all why do we reload?  Is it to save money?  I don't think anyone has ever save money by reloading.  You will spend hundreds of dollars on reloading equipment and supplies.  Once your reloading you will have more ammunition on hand.  More ammunition means shooting, more shooting means more reloading.  It's a never ending cycle.  Now you ask, why?  Two reasons. The most important reason is to have the "Best Quality Custom Made Ammunition for Your Rifle". (note the emphasis on "your Rifle")  Ammunition manufactories make ammunition to fit all rifle in that caliber.  Why spend all the time, money and effort in reloading if your not getting the best quality custom made ammunition for your rifle.  The seconded reason is, you guest it, you have more ammunition to shoot. 
    When I started reloading, I read two different reloading manual's. By following the instructions I was reloading safe ammunition, but that it's.  It took several years to learn that there is more to reloading, than making safe ammunition.  The following is an accumulation of 20 years of trial and error. 

    If your are still reading, here is my method of reloading GOOD QUALITY AMMUNITION that is CUSTOM MADE  to fit YOUR RIFLE and ONLY YOUR RIFLE.    Get a list of materials by clicking here.   
 
    Once you got your tools and components. (a supply of quality cartridge cases, that are from the same manufacture with the same lot number, primers, power, and bullets)   If cases are dirty, tumble them first.  Inspection is the first step.  Check for off centered flash holes and uneven neck wall thickness. (that where one side of the case neck wall is thicker than the other)   A ball micrometer comes in handy here.  If you don't have one , don't sweet it.  Just look at the case neck carefully, if one side looks thicker than the other set that case aside for later use. 

    If your cases have been fired they must be checked for case head separation. Take a paper clip, straighten it out.  Sharpen a point at one end, bend about 1/8" of the pointed end into a L shape.  You now have a tool for checking case head separation.  Insert the paper clip into the case, starting at the bottom slide the point along the case wall.  If the case has stretched, you will be able to feel a grove in the case wall just ahead of the case web. (about 1/4 to 1/2 inch up from the bottom)  Once you feel this grove the case is about to separate, throw the case out.  The risk of case head separation is not worth an extra shot or two.  Don't rush this step, inspect each case carefully under a strong light.  Look for dents